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Nelson Lee Novick, M.D.
500 East 85th Street
Suite P-1
New York, New York 10028
Tel: 212-772-9300
Fax: 212-772-0524
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cosmedispa@gmail.com
קוסמדיספא
רחוב החי"ל 49
רעננה, NA 43316
Israel
Tel: 077-2100818
Fax: 077-4811369

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Cosmetics: Lipstick, Lipliners, and Pencils

STICK COSMETICS

by Nelson Lee Novick, MD, FAAD, FAACS

Stick cosmetics include a cover sticks, pencils (e.g., eyebrow, eyeliner, and lip liner pencils), and stick blushers. The active ingredients in these items are essentially pigments dispersed throughout the heavy oil-wax base. Waxes, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, ceresin (ozokerite), and cetyl and stearyl alcohols, provide consistency, texture, and after-feel to these cosmetics.

LIPSTICKS

In the main, lipsticks and glosses differ little in their basic composition. So-called permanent lipsticks, which are designed to be longer lasting, contain a staining dye in addition to the regular pigments and pearlizers. Staining dyes not only add color but also allow other colors to adhere better to your lips. However, eosin, a fluorescent staining dye, also called D&C red #22, is a potent sensitizing agent, particularly in combination with sunlight, and should be avoided. A number of years ago, several lipstick pigments were found to be carcinogenic and were banned. Colors that have proven safe include D&C orange #5, and D&C red #21 and #27. Glosses usually contain lanolin or its derivatives to add shine and preserve lipstick intensity.

The fragrance and flavorings often included in lipsticks and glosses provide no additional benefits and actually may precipitate allergic reactions in sensitive people. Look for products that do not contain these unnecessary and potentially problematic ingredients.
The lips, especially the lower lip, are particularly prone to sun damage. Fortunately, the thickness and opacity of most lipsticks provide excellent sun protection. More recently, many manufacturers have added sunscreen ingredients, generally PABA derivatives, to lipsticks, and this may be of some additional benefit.

COVER STICKS

Cover sticks, which are the stick versions of concealers, are variations of the basic lipstick formula. Generally they contain a high proportion of wax to give them body and thickness. These products are recommended for camouflaging spot defects or discolorations and for lightening circles or shadows under your eyes. Some are water-resistant and all may be applied under or over your foundation or in place of it. However, cover sticks tend to aggravate acne, so avoid them altogether or use them only occasionally if you tend to break out. A vicious cycle of acne flare-ups will sometimes occur when cover sticks are applied to cover acne blemishes. If you must use them, remove them as soon as possible.

EYEBROW PENCILS, EYELINER PENCILS, AND LIP LINERS

Cosmetic pencils, like lipsticks, are simply pigments in oil-wax bases. When used properly, they seldom cause problems. Because some of these products are used near the eyes, contact lens wearers should check with their eye-care specialists to be sure that the cosmetics they have chosen will not cause problems.

Excerpted from Super Skin--A Leading Dermatologist's Guide to the Latest Breakthroughs in Skin Care, by Nelson Lee Novick, M.D.

Purchase Super Skin- A Leading Dermatologist's Guide to the Latest Breakthroughs in Skin Care at Amazon or Barnes & Noble

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This information is for general educational uses only. It may not apply to you and your specific medical needs. This information should not be used in place of a visit, call, consultation with or the advice of your physician or health care professional. Communicate promptly with your physician or other health care professional with any health-related questions or concerns.

Be sure to follow specific instructions given to you by your physician or health care professional.



 

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