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Nelson Lee Novick, M.D.
500 East 85th Street
Suite P-1
New York, New York 10028
Tel: 212-772-9300
Fax: 212-772-0524
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cosmedispa@gmail.com
קוסמדיספא
רחוב החי"ל 49
רעננה, NA 43316
Israel
Tel: 077-2100818
Fax: 077-4811369

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Cosmetics: Masking and Camoflauge

Masking Cosmetics

by Nelson Lee Novick, MD, FAAD, FAACS

Masking cosmetics are waterproof make-ups made specifically to cover scars and other kinds of prominent skin discolorations, abnormalities, or irregularities that cannot be easily camouflaged by conventional foundations. They generally work best on flat irregularities and are intended for use anywhere on the body, not just the face.

These make-ups are particularly useful for camouflaging “broken” blood vessels of the face; “liver spots” on the face, hands, and legs; and the small, superficial, purplish varicose blood vessels on the legs (sunburst varicosities). They also are frequently recommended for disguising port-wine stains, depigmented skin patches (vitiligo), and certain kinds of disfiguring skin eruptions such as psoriasis and lupus.

Masking cosmetics are thick, oil-based preparations generally containing greater amounts of pigment than ordinary foundations. In terms of their active ingredients, they are composed of pigments suspended in oil-based moisturizers. They are durable enough to withstand the beach or a chlorinated pool, and they have the additional advantage of being excellent sunblocks, owing to their thickness. Although attempts have been made to reduce their tendency to provoke acne, I still advise people who are acne-prone to remove these cosmetics as soon as possible and certainly never to leave them on overnight.

The application of masking cosmetics is somewhat different from applying regular cosmetics. First, pat the makeup gently over the defect to be covered. Next, blend the edges with the surrounding normal skin. Finally, set the makeup with a special setting powder. When this process is complete, a regular foundation makeup, as well as any other cosmetics you wish, may be applied directly over the masking makeup. Depending upon how extensive the area to be covered, the makeup application process may require between ten and fifteen minutes. The entire routine may seem to be a hassle, but for people with disfiguring cosmetic problems, the use of these cosmetics makes all the difference in the world.

Unfortunately, masking cosmetics are usually not available at local beauty-aid stores, supermarkets, or corner drugstores, but some department stores have them. They tend to be quite expensive, especially if you need them for daily use or to cover a large area. Covermark, Dermablend, Esteem, and Dermage are four major brands.

Theater make-ups (stage makeup) are similar to masking make-ups in that they contain more pigment, are heavier and oilier, and are waterproof. They are made this way so as not to appear washed out under bright lights or be washed away by perspiration. Theater makeup is notorious, however, for clogging pores and aggravating acne. As a result, it should be removed as soon as possible and should not be allowed to remain on overnight.

Excerpted from Super Skin--A Leading Dermatologist's Guide to the Latest Breakthroughs in Skin Care, by Nelson Lee Novick, M.D.

Purchase Super Skin- A Leading Dermatologist's Guide to the Latest Breakthroughs in Skin Care at Amazon or Barnes & Noble

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This information is for general educational uses only. It may not apply to you and your specific medical needs. This information should not be used in place of a visit, call, consultation with or the advice of your physician or health care professional. Communicate promptly with your physician or other health care professional with any health-related questions or concerns.

Be sure to follow specific instructions given to you by your physician or health care professional.

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