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קוסמדיספא
רחוב החי"ל 49
רעננה, NA 43316
Israel
Tel: 077-2100818
Fax: 077-4811369

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Cosmetics: (foundation, eye shadow, eyeliners, mascara)

Cream-Based Make-ups

by Nelson Lee Novick, MD, FAAD, FAACS

FOUNDATIONS

A foundation makeup is, as the name stares, he primary make-up for the face. Foundations smooth your skin, hide blemishes, scars, and other irregularities, and even out skin tones. In addition, they serve as bases for blushes and eye makeup.

Since the main purposes of foundations are to cover up and smooth, the active ingredients of any foundation are its pigments and moisturizers. In fact, foundations are simply moisturizers to which pigments (colors) have been added. Oil-free make-ups contain synthetic lubricants instead of heavier natural oils such as petrolatum, mineral oil, vegetable oils, or lanolins. Water-based foundation make-ups use oil-in-water moisturizer formulations, and oil-based foundations use water-in-oil formulations.

Water-based products are less likely to clog pores and are preferable for people with acne-prone skin. Unfortunately, they tend to run easily. Oil-based foundations, on the other hand, are thicker, more moisturizing, and tend to be either water-resistant or waterproof. Water-resistant makeup lasts about eight hours and won’t run or streak during periods of intense perspiration or high humidity. Waterproof makeups tend to be even oilier than the water-resistant ones and usually can even withstand a half hour of swimming. People with dry or aging skin should opt for these creamier kinds of foundations.

Iron oxides, ultramarine blue, and FD&C colors are examples of pigments commonly used in foundations. Pearlizers (such as bismuth oxychioride), which are added to cosmetics to create a shimmering effect, may be found in some foundations. Magnesium aluminum silicate, talc, clays, and kaolin may be added to impart a matte finish to the foundation and to bring the pigments to the exact color desired. These ingredients are particularly important for muting the oily appearance of creamier foundations.

CONCEALERS

Concealers are simply creamier foundation make-ups. They are generally intended for specific areas of your face, such as under the eyes (to cover dark circles, shadows, or puffiness). The active ingredients in concealers are pigments in an oil-based moisturizer. Concealers are heavier than regular foundation make-ups, so you should limit their application to the areas in which they are needed if you are acne-prone.

Cream blushers are similar to concealers and consist of pigments in an oil-based moisturizer. It’s best to avoid cream blushers if you have oily skin or acne problems.

CREAM EYE SHADOWS

Cream eye shadows are another variation of pigment in an oil- based moisturizer formula. In some cream eye shadows, pearlizers such as mica may cause irritation in the eye area because they possess microscopically sharp edges. Be sure to apply eye shadows with a sponge-stick or a soft, natural-bristle brush, not with your fingers.

LIQUID EYELINERS

Liquid eyeliners also follow the same formula. Inorganic pigments, such as chromium oxide greens, ferric ferrocyanide, ferric ammonium ferrocyanide, manganese violet, and carmine, are common eye cosmetic pigments. Here, though, plasticizing (film-forming) chemicals, such as acrylates and acrylic copolymers, are added to help the eyeliner adhere better to your lids and add luster and thickness to the product. Special care should be taken when putting on eyeliner. If it is applied too close to the corners or under the rims of the eyelids, severe itching, swelling, and tenderness (chemical conjunctivitis) may result. Permanent tattoos of the mucous membranes of the lids have also occurred occasionally from contamination by pigment.

MASCARAS

Again the active ingredients are pigments in a moisturizing base. Waterproof liquid mascaras contain heavy, oil-based moisturizing formulas to which acrylates and shellacs are often added. These serve to thicken mascaras and make them more rain- and tear-resistant. So-called conditioning mascaras generally have water-based moisturizing formulas and tend to be less resistant. Removal of mascara usually requires soap and water or cleansing lotions containing mineral oil. In general, you can use your favorite moisturizer for this purpose; despite the claims of advertising, special removers are not necessary.

Temporary stinging and burning of the eyes or lids during eye cosmetic application is frequently caused by evaporation of the product’s volatile ingredients, such as mineral spirits, isoparaffins, and alcohol. Irritation may also result from the presence of such troublemakers as propylene glycol or soap emulsifiers. Some people who are unable to tolerate water-based mascaras may be able to use waterproof products, and vice versa.

Although it is true that loose eyelashes often fall out when mascara is applied, these hairs do grow back. Mascara does not cause permanent loss of eyelashes. In fact, with proper use, mascaras cause few problems. There are, however, two caveats: First, contact lens wearers should avoid lash-extending mascaras. These products generally contain numerous, very fine particles of rayon that can become trapped under contact lenses, causing irritation or even scratching of the eye’s delicate cornea.

Second, the concentration of preservatives in mascaras purposely has been kept low so as not to irritate the eyes, but this also means that the products do not have a long shelf life, and they are not contamination resistant. Two good rules of thumb: Never share mascara and discard mascara after three or four months.

CREAM MASKS

Masks are supposed to refresh; stimulate, “refine,” firm, cleanse, and condition your skin. (When the alternate spelling, masque, is used the product usually retails for a higher price.) They may be applied by brush, spatula, or your fingertips. Once on your skin, they generally remain plastic (or wet) for a few minutes, after which (about twenty minutes) they harden. They are then washed, peeled, or pried off.

Cream packs, which are similar to cleansing creams, are intended for people with dry or normal skin, but they offer no particular conditioning advantages over routine moisturizers. In general, I do not advise their use. Regular gentle facial cleansing followed by an appropriate moisturizer is generally a more effective, less expensive, and less time-consuming routine for cleansing and moisturizing your skin. However, if you wish to pamper yourself or give yourself a lift with an occasional cream mask facial, I have no serious objections.

Excerpted from Super Skin--A Leading Dermatologist's Guide to the Latest Breakthroughs in Skin Care, by Nelson Lee Novick, M.D.

Purchase Super Skin- A Leading Dermatologist's Guide to the Latest Breakthroughs in Skin Care at Amazon or Barnes & Noble

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